Johnston Canyon might be on your must-see list, but it’s only one reason to explore the Bow Valley Parkway. This scenic road between the Town of Banff and Lake Louise is slower and more enjoyable than simply driving the Trans-Canada Highway, with picnic areas, viewpoints, places to stay and opportunities to see wildlife.
There’s also an important piece of planning that confuses a lot of visitors: part of the Bow Valley Parkway is closed to vehicles at certain times of year. The good news is that you can still get to Johnston Canyon. Here’s how I’d plan the drive or a bike ride along this route.
Listen to Episode 12 of The Banff Travel Podcast
3 Key Takeaways
- Johnston Canyon is still accessible. During the spring and fall when the eastern section of the Bow Valley Parkway is closed to vehicles, reach Johnston Canyon from Castle Junction.
- Understand the two restrictions. Spring vehicle-free cycling and overnight wildlife protection apply to the same 17 km section, but at different times.
- Go early and make time for stops. Johnston Canyon is much better before the crowds, and the parkway has viewpoints, picnic stops and scenic cycling.
What Is the Bow Valley Parkway?
The Bow Valley Parkway, also called Highway 1A, runs for about 48 km between the Town of Banff and Lake Louise. It was once the main road through the Bow Valley. Today it’s a quieter, slower alternative to the Trans-Canada Highway, running through forests with mountain views and several good places to stop.
I particularly enjoy the drive early in the morning or later in the day, when you may spot wildlife along the route. There are campgrounds, lodges, picnic spots and trails, including the very popular Johnston Canyon hike.
Is Johnston Canyon Worth Visiting?
Johnston Canyon follows a dramatic gorge on catwalks attached to the canyon walls, passing waterfalls and pools. The hike itself has three main spots where people choose to continue hiking or turn around: Lower Falls is about 1.2 km one way, Upper Falls is about 2.5 km one way, and the Ink Pots are approximately 5.8 km one way. The Ink Pots are a set of colourful mineral pools in a meadow beyond the canyon.
Our family enjoys Johnston Canyon, but I understand why it topped a poll in my Facebook group asking which Banff attraction people found overrated. The issue wasn’t the canyon itself. It was how crowded the narrow catwalks can feel on a peak summer day.
When I’d Hike Johnston Canyon
I’d aim to be there before 8 a.m., before the tour buses arrive. Evenings are another good choice during the long summer days. I wouldn’t choose midday in July or August if I could avoid it; queues for the Lower Falls cave and waterfall viewpoints can take away from the experience.
Johnston Canyon is also beautiful in winter when the waterfalls freeze and you may see ice climbers around the Upper Falls. For details about this popular Banff hike, see our Johnston Canyon hiking guide.
Bow Valley Parkway Seasonal Road Closures
The Bow Valley Parkway has three main entrances: the eastern entrance roughly 6 km west of Banff, Castle Junction farther west, and the Lake Louise end. The seasonal closures apply to the approximately 17 km eastern section between the Banff entrance and Johnston Canyon, not the entire 48 km road.
Vehicle-Free Cycling Periods on the Bow Valley Parkway
The eastern 17 km section has traditionally been closed to vehicles May 1 to June 25 and August 28 to October 2, making it a wonderful paved cycling route. You can ride to Johnston Canyon without sharing that stretch with regular traffic. Beyond Johnston Canyon, vehicles use the road, so cyclists need to be comfortable sharing it.
Overnight Wildlife Corridor Restriction
There is a separate spring wildlife restriction on the same section, March 1 to June 25, from 8 p.m. to 8 a.m. During those hours, travel is prohibited for everyone, including people walking or cycling, to give wildlife space. If you’re planning a spring bike ride, you need to wait until after 8 a.m. and be off the restricted section before 8 p.m.
Important Tip: You can still drive to Johnston Canyon during the vehicle-free period. Stay on the Trans-Canada Highway to Castle Junction, enter the Bow Valley Parkway there and drive back toward Johnston Canyon. The vehicle restriction affects the eastern entrance, not the whole parkway.
Cycling the Bow Valley Parkway
Cycling the eastern section of the Bow Valley Parkway during the vehicle-free period is one of my favourite experiences in the park. The road is paved with gentle rolling terrain, and you get the mountains and forest without the normal vehicle traffic. At approximately 17 km each way from the eastern entrance to Johnston Canyon, it can make for a long outing, especially if you cycle all the way from your accommodations in Banff.
You can rent a regular bike or an e-bike in Banff. Start from the Town of Banff, take Vermilion Lakes Road and connect to the last section of the Legacy Trail leading to the Bow Valley Parkway. If you’re cycling with children, turn back whenever they’ve had enough rather than feeling committed to the full distance. Guided cycling options are also available.
Carry bear spray, ride together and don’t let children race far ahead of the group. Even in a vehicle-free period, obey road rules and watch for Parks Canada or other authorized service vehicles. Our Bow Valley Parkway cycling guide has even more details.
Best Stops on the Bow Valley Parkway
There are several worthwhile stops along the Bow Valley Parkway. Some on the eastern stretch can only be reached by bike during the vehicle-free periods.
Viewpoints and Picnic Stops
Sawback Burn is a chance to see how the forest has regenerated following a prescribed burn in 1993. Muleshoe is a peaceful picnic and birdwatching stop. Hillsdale Meadow Viewpoint is especially pretty when wildflowers are in bloom.
Farther along, Moose Meadows has open scenery and seasonal wildflowers. Castle Cliffs Viewpoint is one of my favourite places to appreciate Castle Mountain, while Storm Mountain Lookout has mountain views, picnic tables and interpretive information.
Morant’s Curve
Near the Lake Louise end of the road, Morant’s Curve is one of the most famous photography locations in the Rockies. From here you look down on an S-shaped curve of railway tracks beside the turquoise Bow River, with impressive mountains in the background. You don’t need a train passing through to appreciate the setting.
Where to Stay on the Bow Valley Parkway
Staying along the road can be wonderful if you want a quieter base and early access to Johnston Canyon. The trade-off is that food options are limited, so you may need to drive back to Banff or Lake Louise for meals.
Camping options include Johnston Canyon Campground and Protection Mountain Campground. Accommodation options along the the Bow Valley Parkway include Johnston Canyon Lodge and Bungalows, right by the trailhead, Castle Mountain Chalets, HI Castle Mountain Wilderness Hostel, and Baker Creek toward the Lake Louise end.
Visiting Johnston Canyon Without a Car
During the season when it operates, Roam Transit Route 9 serves Johnston Canyon from the Town of Banff. You can also look at guided Johnston Canyon hikes or the Banff HopOn bus. Check the service dates when choosing a car-free itinerary, especially if you’re visiting outside peak summer.
When Roam Transit is on the winter schedule (mid-October to mid-May), Route 9 only operates on weekends.
Wildlife Safety on the Parkway
This road is excellent for wildlife viewing, but the animals are wild and need space. I’ve had to ask people not to feed chipmunks, to step back from elk and even to get into their car rather than approach a bear. If someone asks you to give an animal more space, please take that advice seriously.
Drive slowly, respect the speed limit and don’t block the road or stop dangerously for photos. Carry bear spray when hiking or biking, know how to use it and pack out all your garbage. Our Bow Valley Parkway scenic drive guide covers the road and stops in more detail.
Helpful Links & Resources Mentioned in This Episode
Need Help Planning Your Banff Trip?
If you are deciding when to visit Johnston Canyon and how to fit the Bow Valley Parkway into your trip, my Banff & Jasper Planning Hub includes itineraries and maps to help you group your days sensibly.
